Kiribati is more a sprinkling of far-flung coral atolls than dry land, more deep blue ocean than sandy beach, more coconut trees than people, more Catholic church than ancient island beliefs. Kiribati (pronounced kee-ree-bus) is far away, hard to get to, untouristed and deeply religious. It is also blessed with myriad reefs, billions of gaudy fish swarming over the coral, and plenty of WWII wrecks.

Tarawa, Kiribati's capital may not be the Venice of the Pacific, but you do have to negotiate the main sights by causeway and inter-island boat. While modernity is rearing its head, locals still welcome travellers as rarely seen curios. Although there's not much organised activity, it's not hard to find diving and game fishing in most places. And idyllic beaches are never far from anywhere if you want to escape with a book or a diving mask.

Tarawa is not a single town but a group of islands surrounded by a coral atoll, and apart from the south where causeways link the islets; you’ll need a boat to navigate around the main features. The international airport is on Bonriki in the southeast corner, which also hosts the new hospital and fishponds.

Betio Island, probably the most populous in Kiribati, has the port, shipyard and main power station, and it’s where you’ll go if you need to cool your heels overnight in jail. Betio also has a large number of war relics, after fierce fighting during a major marine assault in November 1943. On Ambo Island the ‘greens’ of the golf course are rolled sand.

During the 1880s, a force from the Christian north led by Hawaiian pastors descended on the southerners ‘in the name of the Book’ and killed about 1000 non-believers (and also grabbed some more land for themselves). The name ‘Tabiteuea’ means ‘chiefs are forbidden’, and the society of the islands is egalitarian with no nobility. It is the largest and most populous outer island, and parts of Tabiteuea South are among the most beautiful in Kiribati.

Traditional culture remains strong, with traditional dancing, singing, and magic still playing a significant role in people’s lives. While Tabiteuea is not geared up for tourists, you could contact the Catholic Mission if you are stuck for a place to sleep. Tabiteuea is about 400km (248mi) from Tarawa, and you can reach it by Air Kiribati from Tarawa, or by Kiribati Shipping Corporation from Tarawa.

Butaritari is wet and green, with around 4m (157in) of rain a year, and its name roughly means ‘smell of the sea’ in I-Kiribati. It lies in the northern Gilberts, placing it just over the line in the North Pacific. Described as ‘the land that Time picked up but dropped’, Butaritari is not far from Tarawa but may seem a world away. One of the main features of the island is the fried breadfruit, a different variety from that found elsewhere in Kiribati.

Robert Louis Stevenson dropped by Abemama in 1889 and his wife designed a silly flag for the island (including a shark wearing a crown), which understandably was never used. The British placed the Kingdom of Abemama under their protection in 1892, and Abemamans were lucky enough to have their island declared a Crown Colony in 1911.

It nearly became the post war capital, but Tarawa finally won out because of the easier access through its surrounding reef. War relics are still scattered over the island, and several villages are worth visiting, although none are geared up to take tourists.

Tag: Kiribati