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Mallorca

Posted by George Delis  Posted by George Delis in Travelling section

Mallorca

Floating in the Mediterranean between Spain and the North African coast, the Mallorca island is invaded every summer by a massive multinational force of hedonistic party animals and sun seekers, as well as a few quieter folk. This is hardly surprising considering what's on offer: fine beaches, relentless sunshine, good food and wild nightlife.

There's far more to Mallorca than the holy triumvirate of sun, sea and sand. Fight your way past the army of tan-seeking tourists, and you'll discover Gothic architecture, hilltop villages, olive groves and hidden beaches. If you're after something a bit crazier, 24-hour parties and frenetic clubbing sessions are the norm. The capital, Palma, is particularly happening, with cultural sights and a kicking nightlife.

Around half of Mallorca’s population live in the capital, Palma, and it’s a buzzing, vibrant place. After dark, its famous nightlife rivals other Spanish cities. By day, you can explore the attractive old quarter, crammed with cobbled lanes, tree-lined boulevards, Gothic churches and designer boutiques. You’re unlikely to be alone; the city is usually packed with tourists, and you’ll pass tacky souvenir shops on every corner. If you fancy hitting a nearby beach, your choice is limited to tourist developments a bus-ride away.

You can’t miss the imposing Gothic cathedral, built between 1230 and 1600. Visitors can wonder at Gaudi’s curious wrought-iron sculpture hanging from the ceiling and check out the adjacent museum of shiny religious artefacts. In front of the cathedral stands the Palau de l’Almudaina, an Islamic castle that became a Mallorcan royal residence. The winding streets of the surrounding historic quarter are home to the Museu de Mallorca, a converted 15th-century palace containing archaeological finds, antiques and paintings of local dignitaries. The Banyas Arabas (Arab Baths) are also in this area. Opposite the waterfront is Gothic masterpiece La Llotja, which contains an art museum. Just west of the city centre is the impressive Bellver Castle.

Valldemossa, owes its fame largely to Frederic Chopin and his lover George Sand, who spent their famous ‘winter of discontent’ (1938-39) in Cartuja de Valldemossa. This former monastery was converted into rental accommodation after the monks were turfed out in 1835. Today you can visit the lovely gardens and rooms: highlights of the tour are Chopin’s piano, his death mask and several of his original manuscripts.

The idyllic town of Dei? has a bohemian feel: the setting is stunning and it has attracted a large number of artists, writers and musicians over the years. English poet Robert Graves died here in 1985 and is buried in the hillside cemetery. The town’s main street is lined with artists’ workshops and galleries selling locally produced work. There are also many bars and cafes where you can sketch, write poetry, or just have a beer.

To really appreciate S?ller, take the old train from Palma; it twists and turns past trees and olive groves, through the stunning Tramuntana mountains. The journey takes about an hour, and the views are spectacular. Many people use the town as a base for walking in the surrounding area, but it’s also a charming place to explore, with attractive old buildings, lush gardens and open plazas. Bars and restaurants border the main square, Pla?a de la Constituci?.

The 16th-century Esgl?sia Parroquial de San Bartolom? is also here, its modernist facade belying a beautiful Gothic interior. An ex-San Francisco tram takes visitors down to the attractive but overcrowded in high season Port de S?ller on the coast. Boats run excursions to Sa Calobra, Dei?, Sant Elm and Illa sa Dragonera.

Set between two huge bays, Badia de Pollen?a and Badia d’Alcodia, Alcudia was once a Roman settlement. Although you can see remnants of its ancient past, the town has a slightly sanitised feel and most of the medieval walls encircling it are a modern copy. Just outside the walls are the remains of the Roman city of Poll?tia, 1200 sq m (2150 sq ft) of which have been excavated and opened to the public.

For a change of scenery, the Parc Natural de l’Albufera nature reserve nearby is excellent walking, cycling and bird-watching country. Look out for moorhens and coots in the grass, and herons and flamingos in the reeds. You can pick up a map and list of birds to spot at the reception centre.

Coves del Drac (Caves of the Dragon). With almost 2000m (6550ft) of caves and six subterranean lakes, this attraction is not for the claustrophobic. The caves were discovered near Porto Cristo on the east coast in 1896, and today crowds of visitors come for the hour-long multilingual tour - be prepared to queue if you come at a weekend. The beautifully illuminated clusters of stalactites and stalagmites are named after things they resemble, though inevitably some labels are more obvious than others.

The highlight of the tour is classical musicians playing from boats on a large underground lake. Inspired by this evocative spectacle, you can take a boat ride across the lake before you leave the caves.
If you want to stay out of daylight for a bit longer, Porto Cristo’s large aquarium is not far from the caves. Kids particularly enjoy the deadly sea creatures on display.


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