New-Caledonia has been discovered in 1774 by the british navigator James Cook, who named this land New-Caledonia in memory of his native Scotland, which he recalled when he saw the shape of central moutains, from his boat nearby the coast. In 1853, the french admiral Febvrier-Despointes took possession of New-Caledonia in the name of France, at Balade, a village located in the very north part of the main land, and New-Caledonia became a french overseas territory.

Noumea has begun swag of new developments unparalleled since the heady days of the nickel boom. Political rallies today are more likely to be protesting forced redundancies and cuts to services than demanding an end to French rule. From Anse Vata in the south, Noumea’s most prestigious beach, to the northern suburbs of Koutiou and Yahoue, the town measures little more than 15km (9.3mi).

The city centre spreads along Baie de la Moselle to the west, a fine harbour with good shelter for cruise liners, fishing boats and a fleet of private yachts. Further west lays Nouville, site of the colony’s first penal settlement, and now connected to the mainland by fill from the nickel smelters. Immediately north of central Noumea the land is mainly industrial, with uninteresting residential and industrial suburbs beyond. On the eastern edge of the peninsula lie the well-to-do waterside suburbs of Ste Marie and Ouemo.

Often the only part of New Caledonia outside Grande Terre that many travelers experience, the Ile des Pins has as its main claim to fame extraordinary beaches and bays. The people are mostly Kanaks, and the island was spared the worst violence of the 1980s. Perhaps as a consequence, the islanders are welcoming and friendly to travelers.

The best of the island’s beaches are at Kuto, which also attracts most of the tourists. Many of the places to stay and restaurants are clustered around here, and at the Baie de Kuto local people come at dusk to fish. The penal colony governor’s residence, the gendarmerie, the prison ruins and the Cimetiere des Deportees are all worth exploring.

The Baie d’Oro is a sheltered estuary covered with knee-deep water of the most exquisite turquoise colour, surrounded by the towering pines that give the island its name. Ile des Pins is well served by air from Noumea, and a ferry and some cargo vessels also take passengers. It lays 50km (31mi) southeast of Grande Terre.

Hienghene has two main drawcards: it’s the site of the massacre of 10 independantistes in 1984 and the Linderalique Cliffs, dramatic, black limestone cliffs, rising in some places to 60m (197ft) above the sea. They are topped by razor-sharp pinnacles, and the many caves among them are inhabited by swallows and flying foxes. A Club Med south of Hiengh?ne offers luxury accommodation and a cutesy imitation Melanesian village.

The Goa Ma Bwarhat Cultural Centre contains a small museum and a performance room, where there are occasional theatrical, musical and legend-telling performances. You can hike the Chemin des Arabes across Grande Terre’s central mountains to the west coast, a trip of three days with water en route. Hienghene is on the north-east coast of Grande Terre, via a paved road that crosses the mountains and then hugs the coast through a spectacular coastal landscape. A bus from Noumea is the best way to get there.

With a population of only 4350, Bourail is a lively colonial-era settlement and New Caledonia’s second largest town. It does get a little livelier than the Arab Cemetery and New Zealand Pacific War Cemetery. Huntin’ and fishin’ are the main pastimes among the local Caldoche community, and an unusual rock formation, La Roche Percee, is the most famous landmark in the area.

Although many Noumeans escape to the park during holidays and weekends, if you manage to get there during the week you could have it all to yourself. A great place for nature lovers and hikers, the park has virgin forests of araucaria and kauri pine (including the giant Grand Kaori, estimated to be around 1000 years old), swimming holes and abundant walking tracks. The park’s rich bird life includes the red-crowned parakeet, the black honeyeater and the cagou, New Caledonia’s national bird.

Tag: New Caledonia