The islanders call it 'the Rock', its name means 'Behold the Coconut', Captain Cook got it utterly wrong and dubbed it Savage Island - and we call it Niue, one of the Pacific's smallest, and most unassuming, nations.

Friendly, laid-back Niue offers peerless diving in clear seas, though the waters are shared with scores of striped sea snakes (mostly harmless). The rocky island is riddled with fabulous caves and dramatic coastal walks - in fact, it's a textbook example of a makatea, an upwardly thrusting coral reef. It's miles from anywhere and not the easiest place to get to, and that can only add to the island's many charms.

Niue’s capital is little more than just one long street stretching for several kilometres along the rocky coastline. The waterline is marked by several traditional canoe-landing spots, including Opaahi Landing, the place where Captain Cook made an unsuccessful attempt to come ashore in 1744. There are a couple of pocket-handkerchief sized beaches, notably at Utuko and Omahi. The biggest attractions for divers lie directly offshore - the Chimney, Opaahi and Faka Laina (aka the Toilet Bowl) dives.

A drop down into the crystal-clear depths is rewarded by a twisting series of gullies, ravines, chasms, caves and reef ridges. If bad weather hits, head indoors to learn the story of the island’s history and culture at the Huanaki Cultural Centre, or visit the Ekalesia Church on Tomb Point. The two headstones outside the church mark the graves of two island kings, Tuitoga (ruled 1876-87) and Fataaiki (1888-96).

The grave of Nukai Peniamina, the Niuean credited with introducing Christianity to his homeland in 1846, is 4.5km (2.5mi) north along the coast from Alofi. Peniamina was converted to Christianity by the London Missionary Society while in Samoa, and with the assistance of a Samoan missionary named Paulo, he managed to convert the majority of Niue’s population in just a decade. You’ll see many gravestones scattered around Niue, as the islanders are usually buried on their family land.

Two dive sites (Namoui and Anono) are just offshore from the grave site, as well as a marine reserve for a turtle encounter or two. A little further north, 7km (4mi) from the capital, a signpost leads to the Avaiki Cave, an impressive coastal cavern sheltering a beautiful rockpool - according to local legend, it was the landing point of Niue’s first settlers. Further still there’s the stalagmite and stalactite-filled Palaha Cave. The best beach on the island is nearby Hio, reached by a wooden stairway down the cliffside. Offshore there’s a chasm full of tropical fish and fringed with coral, offering the perfect opportunity for snorkelling.

Niue’s most popular swimming and snorkelling spot would have to be these lambent fresh and saltwater pools, 10km (6mi) north of the capital. Swimming on a Sunday is permitted here, and also further north at Matapa Chasm. The awesome Ana Mahaga twin caves dive is just offshore, with some of the island’s most spectacular scuba diving: two chimneys plummet down through the reef before turning through a 90-degree angle to emerge as huge caves on the reef edge, joined by a horizontal tunnel.

Tag: Niue