If there were a popularity contest among countries in West Africa, Togo would probably be a strong contender. Only a thin strip of land, it still receives rave reviews from travellers and tourists. Its capital city, Lom?, and the beaches that surround it are the big draws for most vacationers, while those who push farther off the beaten track are wowed by its unique village cultures and the vivacity of their markets and festivals. Togo's recent political turmoil has driven off the throngs of the last few decades, but the attractions that brought them in the first place remain largely the same.

Before the country’s political troubles of the 1990s, Lom? was the pearl of West Africa. Nearly everyone who swept through the region stopped in Lom? for a few days at the beach. French and German tourists, especially, would flock in during the winter, living it up in the city’s five-star hotels and fine restaurants. But travellers are fairly scarce these days, and many businesses are just getting by. Though a few hotels still do a brisk business, most tourist facilities now bide their time in a semi-deserted ambience. There are a few Internet caf?s opening up in Lom? with cheap and reliable connections. It’s the only place in Togo you’ll find public access to the Internet.

On the Place de l’Independence stands a gilded bronze statue of the man behind the muscle, President Eyad?ma, and another of his mother; both were removed during the civil disturbances of 1991. The Palais des Congr?s was previously the headquarters of Eyad?ma’s party. Behind the Palais, the National Museum houses a collection of historical artefacts, pottery and woodcarvings.

On the northern banks of Lake Togo, Togoville’s chief draw is its history. It was from here that voodoo practitioners were taken as slaves to Haiti, now a major centre for the practice. Also of note, it was here that chief Mlapa III signed a peace treaty with the German explorer Nachtigal, which gave the Germans rights over all of Togo.

Today, the only attractions are the chief’s house, the church and the Artisanal, an art co-operative consisting of several buildings with artisans working in each. Most of the men are wood carvers, whose pieces are neither cheap nor of high quality, so you’ll probably be let down. The nearby church has some beautiful stained-glass windows and pictures of the gruesome deaths of famous African martyrs.

The last point of interest is the Maison Royal, where the local chief lives, holds court and parks his shiny gold Mercedes. Mlapa V Moyennant will show you around his compound, including a ‘museum’ of photos of his grandfather and his throne, though a gift in return will be expected.

A 45-minute ride east of Lom? brings you to An?ho, the colonial capital of Togo until 1920. Although the today’s town looks a little worse for wear, it can be interesting to pick your way through those buildings that remain standing and to watch the daily activities of the fisher-folk, deftly navigating their boats and hauling in their nets in the late afternoon.

At night, An?ho is at its best, with a variety of food vendors and musicians filling the air with scents and sounds. It makes for great beer sipping and people-watching.